Mandilaria, a red grape thriving on the volcanic island of Santorini, Greece, demonstrates the winemaking principle of “don’t compete where you don’t compare.” While often overshadowed by other varietals, Mandilaria flourishes in Santorini’s unique terroir, offering distinctive characteristics that set it apart. This article explores Mandilaria’s journey from supporting player in blends to a star in its own right on the island.
Santorini: A Perfect Match for Mandilaria
Mandilaria’s success in Santorini stems from a symbiotic relationship with the island’s challenging environment. While susceptible to rot and fungal diseases in wetter climates, Santorini’s arid, volcanic landscape eliminates these threats. The vine’s natural resistance to hot, dry conditions, coupled with the wide spacing required by the water-scarce terrain, addresses the grape’s tendency towards vigorous canopy growth. This natural adaptation allows Mandilaria to thrive where other varietals might struggle, showcasing the importance of finding the right environment for each grape.
From Blending Grape to Standalone Star
Traditionally, Mandilaria has been valued for its deep color and robust structure, often used in small quantities to enhance the color of other wines. Even as little as 10% Mandilaria can significantly deepen the hue of wines like Cabernet Sauvignon. However, in Santorini, Mandilaria showcases its potential as a standalone varietal.
Two examples of Santorini Mandilaria, both from the Argyros winery, reveal the grape’s unique expression in this volcanic terroir. The “Atlantis” bottling, a blend of 90% Mandilaria and 10% Mavrotragano, another rare Santorini grape, offers a complex profile of black cherry, blackberry, cola, and earthy mushroom notes. The high acidity and firm tannins, reminiscent of a fruity Zinfandel, showcase Mandilaria’s structure.
A second Argyros bottling, potentially a predecessor to the “Atlantis,” highlights the concentrated flavors of dried cherry, blackberry, and cola, reminiscent of dried cherries steeped in Coca-Cola. Both wines demonstrate Mandilaria’s ability to produce rich, intensely flavored wines in Santorini’s unique environment. These wines are likely to appeal to fans of bold, fruit-forward wines like California Zinfandel or Australian Shiraz.
Mandilaria and Kotsifali: A Cretan Partnership
While Mandilaria shines in Santorini, it also plays a significant role in the wines of Crete, often blended with Kotsifali. Kotsifali, with its lighter color and lower acidity, complements Mandilaria’s intensity.
Kotsifali contributes aromatic complexity with spicy, floral, and herbaceous notes, while Mandilaria provides the color, tannins, and fruit concentration. This partnership demonstrates how blending can leverage the strengths of different varietals to create balanced and compelling wines. A rosé from Creta Olympias, blending these two grapes, showcases the vibrant fruit characteristics of both varietals, although aging potential may be a concern.
Conclusion: Finding the Right Place to Shine
Mandilaria’s story underscores the importance of terroir and the philosophy of “don’t compete where you don’t compare.” By finding a niche in Santorini’s volcanic landscape, Mandilaria transcends its traditional role as a blending grape and emerges as a unique and compelling varietal. Its success serves as a testament to the potential of exploring lesser-known grapes and the remarkable influence of place on wine.
