It’s hard to believe it’s been fifty virtual tastings since the pandemic began! To mark this milestone, we’re diving into the world of Portuguese wine with longtime friends of 1WD, Esporão. Known for making a name for themselves in Alentejo, Esporão has expanded its reach to include Quinta dos Murças in the Douro and Quinta do Ameal in Vinho Verde. This tasting, led by Ameal winemaker José Luis Moreira da Silva and Esporão’s Frank Paredes, perfectly illustrated the concept of Comparing Opposites in Portuguese wine regions.
As José Luis emphasized, their primary goal is to craft wines that truly embody each region, highlighting their distinct characteristics. And distinct they are! Vinho Verde and Douro represent almost polar opposite styles within Portugal’s diverse wine landscape.
Vinho Verde, technically the top-selling Portuguese wine region in the USA and the largest DOC in Portugal by vineyard area, is characterized by its lush, green landscapes and higher rainfall. Influenced by the Atlantic, this region boasts a cooler, continental climate where vines thrive in sandy loam and granitic soils. José Luis notes that these soils “reinforce the acidity” vital to Vinho Verde’s signature style.
In stark contrast, the Douro Valley is famed for its dramatic, steep terraced vineyards, schist and slate soils, arid climate, and intensely hot summers. It’s the home of Port wine and powerful, concentrated red wines. This juxtaposition of terroir sets the stage for a fascinating comparison of opposites: the vibrant, crisp whites of Vinho Verde against the robust, deep reds of the Douro. Let’s explore these differences further through a tasting of recent releases from Quinta do Ameal and Quinta dos Murças.
Vinho Verde: Embracing Freshness and Bright Acidity
2020 Esporão Quinta do Ameal ‘Bico Amarelo’ (Vinho Verde, $12)
Quinta do Ameal, Esporão’s acquisition in Vinho Verde, is steeped in history, dating back to 1710. Located along the Lima River, the estate’s varied elevations create diverse growing conditions. The previous owner championed the Loureiro grape variety, recognizing its aging potential and unique character since 1990. José Luis likens Loureiro to Riesling in its age-worthiness, emphasizing the grape’s focus on “acidity and freshness.” The goal with Ameal was to elevate Vinho Verde, producing “more valuable, more premium” wines.
The ‘Bico Amarelo’ is a blend of Loureiro, Alvarinho, and Avesso from different Vinho Verde subregions, aiming for “harmony” between these grapes naturally, without added gas or sugar. The 25-year-old vineyards yield a wine that is beautifully floral and mineral, bursting with citrus notes of limes, lemons, and grapefruit. The nose is vivacious and fresh with tropical hints. While the acidity is prominent, it’s balanced by a pleasant roundness on the palate. The finish is light and refreshing, echoing green apple and lime pith. This wine offers both intellectual interest and pure refreshment, an exceptional value for its price.
2020 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro (Vinho Verde, $18)
This bottling is 100% Loureiro, a “blend of all the plots we have on the estate,” José Luis explains. Grapes from river-adjacent plots contribute acidity, while hillside fruit adds depth. The wine undergoes 6 months of batonnage, enhancing its texture and complexity. The aromas are intensely fresh: flowers, limes, and lemon rind, exhibiting refined elegance despite not being overtly complex. Juicy and refreshing, the palate is electric, with mineral and bay leaf nuances. It maintains composure and coolness throughout, never becoming aggressive. The finish is strikingly Riesling-esque, with stone fruit notes and a hint of spice. This Loureiro is elegant, excellent, and offers exceptional length for its price point.
Douro: Power, Pluminess, and Spice
2017 Esporão Quinta dos Murças ‘Assobio’ Red (Douro, $14)
In contrast to the established Ameal, Quinta dos Murças was more of a “blank slate” when Esporão acquired it over 12 years ago. Its 48 hectares of vines, part of a larger 155-hectare estate, boast significant biodiversity and historical importance. In 1947, Murças pioneered vertical plantings in the Douro, a practice now covering 82% of the estate. These vertical rows, favoring concentration and quality over yield, also enhance vine aeration and disease resistance. Paredes emphasizes that “the elegance is linked to these conditions” in their Cima Corgo location, a cooler Douro subregion. The estate is now 100% organic, a transition aided by a 2015 soil survey that deepened their understanding of individual plots and terroirs.
The ‘Assobio’ blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz comes from nearly 40-year-old vines. Its name, meaning “Whistle,” evokes the wind whistling through the vineyards. The nose is inviting with balsamic notes, blackberry, black plums, and ample spices. This very approachable red offers nice freshness, balancing acidity with ripe red fruit and well-managed tannins. Hints of wood spice add complexity to the finish. This is a crowd-pleasing, friendly red wine.
2018 Esporão Quinta dos Murças ‘Minas’ (Douro, $24)
The ‘Minas’ red is crafted from estate-grown fruit from vines planted between 1987 and 2011. The blend includes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, and smaller portions of Tinta Cao and Tinta Francisca. Quinta dos Murças still utilizes traditional lagares for foot-treading the grapes, a testament to their commitment to heritage winemaking. This wine is intense and ripe, showcasing prominent spice notes. The fruit profile leans towards black fruits, delivering power and depth. Leather, dark dried herbal spices, wood spices, dried violets, and a smoky character also emerge. The palate is fresh and vibrant, yet also rich with tangy red fruit, bold and spicy black plums, and balsamic undertones. Currently youthful, this wine promises to become even more robust with a few years of bottle aging.
This tasting beautifully illustrated the contrasting styles within Esporão’s portfolio and the broader Portuguese wine scene. From the zesty, refreshing whites of Vinho Verde to the powerful, spicy reds of the Douro, comparing these opposites reveals the incredible diversity and quality that Portugal offers wine lovers. Cheers to exploring these fascinating differences!
