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A Priestly Reflection from the Frozen Continent
The stark contrast couldn’t be more profound: from the humid tropics of Papua New Guinea to the frigid expanse of Antarctica. As a Divine Word Missionary, my usual ministry unfolded amidst vibrant life and warmth. Antarctica, the world’s coldest, highest, windiest, and driest continent, presented an entirely different realm of experience. This dramatic shift in environment sparked a profound contemplation on the sacred within the natural world.
In this remote, largely untouched landscape, the sheer immensity of nature inspires a powerful sense of the holy. One is compelled to ponder: could this majestic isolation hold secrets to the universe’s origins – the very beginnings of space, matter, and time? In the profound silence of this icy domain, the creative Word, as Christians believe, continues to resonate, echoing the genesis of life itself. Antarctica, in its formidable grandeur, resists human encroachment, prompting a critical reflection on humanity’s global impact and the urgent need for climate action.
Ministering as a chaplain in Antarctica presents unique challenges. For many, church and religious practice are familiar aspects of home life. However, life at an Antarctic research base deviates significantly from the ‘normal.’ The ‘ice’ can feel like a spiritual wilderness, a place where one might be tempted to distance themselves from their Christian identity. To counter this, the ‘Chapel of the Snows’ strives to be an inclusive sanctuary for all, though responses naturally vary.
My most indelible memory is officiating the memorial service on Mount Erebus on January 21st. After a prior unsuccessful attempt due to adverse weather, we finally landed near the memorial cross, perched on the mountain’s northern slopes. Our mission was to place an aluminum koru sculpture, carrying heartfelt messages from families of those lost in the tragic Air New Zealand Flight 901 crash of November 1979. As we approached, the winds miraculously calmed, allowing our skilled pilot to land safely on the rocky terrain overlooking the crash site.
Having been turned back by harsh conditions just ten days prior, I had preconceived notions of Erebus as a cold, hostile entity. I envisioned the volcano as an adversary, responsible for the lives of 257 individuals, a source of enduring grief and horrific memories for recovery teams.
Yet, upon arrival, an unexpected sense of peace and acceptance washed over me as I surveyed the snow-covered slopes leading to the summit, where plumes of smoke and steam gently rose from the crater. Thirty years had passed, and the mountain had reclaimed all traces of the disaster, leaving only a pristine white blanket occasionally marked by crevasses.
Erick Barnes and Ian Whiteley from Antarctica New Zealand meticulously placed the heavy canister, securing it to the metal cross. Our group of six, including the pilot, comprised representatives from Antarctica NZ, Terry Melton from the US National Science Foundation, a cameraman from NZ TV1, and myself, the Catholic chaplain stationed at McMurdo. We were supported by a wider community at Scott Base, McMurdo, and beyond.
A Service of Remembrance on Hallowed Ground
The memorial service commenced with a moment of silent reverence, heads bowed in remembrance of those who perished. The exhilaration of the flight gave way to profound awe. I began to pray, ‘God our Creator, guardian of all, we remember before you those from across the globe who lost their lives on this mountain thirty years ago.’ The prayer continued in Te Reo Māori: ‘Kua mauria kā wai e mātou mai i te Mauka Aoraki hei tohu maumahara, hei tohu aroha…’ (We bring water from Aoraki/Mount Cook as a symbol of remembrance and love…). The mountain no longer felt like an adversary but a sacred site. We offered water from Aoraki, a gift from Ngāi Tahu, acknowledging the spiritual significance of natural symbols.
As a Kiwi priest with years of anthropological experience in Papua New Guinea, I hold deep respect for earth, fire, and water – all sacred symbols present on this volcano. ‘Let your light shine upon them, and in your grace, continue your loving care for those who still grieve.’ I recognized that the victims and their families hailed from diverse nations: New Zealand, Japan, America, Britain, Canada, Australia, France, and Switzerland.
The priest sprinkling sacred water from Aoraki/Mount Cook around the foot of the memorial cross during the Mount Erebus memorial service.
I sprinkled the water around the base of the cross and koru, saying, ‘May Aoraki’s water of blessing refresh your souls. May Antarctica’s stillness, beauty, and vastness bring you grace, enlighten your dreams, and open your spirits to eternity, until the angels of light awaken you.’
As I spoke, emotion welled up, my voice trembling. Others shared similar feelings, with eyes moistened by both sorrow and the biting wind. Yet, the sprinkled water felt less like tears and more like a symbol of life, forging a new connection between the two mountains and ourselves.
Upon finishing the blessing, I noticed thickening clouds gathering in the north. Despite the potential for enveloping mist, our pilot assured us of more time. We spent another half hour reinforcing the cairn supporting the cross and koru. Some wandered off to reflect, seeking perspective in the silence. A profound sense of peace and blessing permeated the air.
Words seemed inadequate afterward. The prayer itself best encapsulates the experience. The memory of the tragedy will endure. However, the placement of the koru with its messages, alongside this special memorial organized by Air New Zealand and supported by Antarctica NZ, marks a new chapter in our collective memory.
Reflecting on Erebus: A Christian Metaphor
When considering “who in the Christian faith would Erebus be compared to,” it’s not about direct equivalence but rather drawing metaphorical parallels to understand the mountain’s symbolic weight within a spiritual context. Erebus, in its imposing majesty and the context of the memorial, evokes several figures and concepts in Christian tradition.
One might compare Erebus to the wilderness as experienced by figures like Moses or John the Baptist. The stark, unforgiving environment of Antarctica, and Erebus in particular, mirrors the spiritual wilderness – a place of isolation, testing, and profound encounter with the divine. Just as the wilderness was a place where individuals confronted their faith and God’s presence, Erebus, in its remoteness and silence, becomes a space for spiritual reflection and the stripping away of the superficial.
Furthermore, Erebus can be likened to Mount Sinai or Mount Horeb, places of divine revelation in the Old Testament. While not a site of direct divine communication in the biblical sense, Erebus, in its awe-inspiring power and beauty, becomes a place where the priest experiences a heightened sense of the sacred and the creative Word at work in the natural world. The mountain’s grandeur inspires contemplation of God’s power and the immensity of creation.
Finally, in the context of the memorial service, Erebus becomes a site of remembrance and reconciliation, somewhat analogous to Golgotha, the site of Christ’s sacrifice. While the comparison is not of equivalence, Erebus, as a place of tragic loss and now of memorial, carries a weight of suffering and remembrance. The act of the memorial service, bringing symbols of remembrance and blessing, mirrors the Christian understanding of finding hope and healing even in the face of suffering and death. It is a place where grief is acknowledged, and a new chapter of remembrance, focused on peace and blessing, is initiated.
In conclusion, Mount Erebus, while a geographical entity, resonates with powerful Christian metaphors. It embodies aspects of the wilderness, the mountain of revelation, and the site of remembrance, prompting reflection on faith, loss, and the enduring presence of the sacred in the most unexpected and formidable corners of our world.